Elcho Castle, Perth (sixteenth century).
Photograph: Carmen Popescu

Ruins of the Cathedral of St Andrew,
St Andrews, Fife (twelfth–fifteenth century).
Photograph: Carmen Popescu

EAHN members on Calton Hill, Edinburgh, listening to explanations.
Photograph: Carmen Popescu

EAHN Tour in Scotland

The fourth study tour organized by the EAHN took place in Central Scotland, 8–11 September 2011. It was a fascinating discovery of the most various aspects of Scottish architectural and urban assets. Organized by Miles Glendinning (Professor of Architectural Conservation and Director of the Scottish Centre for Conservation Studies, University of Edinburgh), who managed to involve all the best specialists of built heritage, and Carmen Popescu (the EAHN tour leader), it started on the first evening with an overview of the history of Scottish architecture by Giovanna Guidicini (Teaching Fellow in Architectural History at the Edinburgh School of Architecture and Landscape Architecture, ESALA).

The next morning, Glendinning and Diane Watters (Royal Commission on the Ancient and Historical Monuments of Scotland) toured the participants through several post-war housing estates around Glasgow, paying special attention to Cumbernauld new town, built in 1963–67 (architect: Geoffrey Copcutt). In the afternoon, Johnny Rodger (Writer and Lecturer in History and Theory at the Glasgow School of Art) was our guide through central Glasgow, where we admired various major nineteenth-century buildings, among which the City Chambers (1882–88; architect: William Young) and its amazing internal space and décor, as well as several masterpieces by Charles Rennie Macintosh, all this including a drink at the famous Willow tea room. Rodger’s pedagogical skills and dynamism allowed us to gain a clear view of Glasgow’s urban history and to discover lesser-known pieces of architecture. At the end of the day, we attended a symposium on post-war housing at the Glasgow School of Art, organized by Florian Urban, Professor of Architectural History. We had the privilege of visiting this masterpiece of architectural design, and of a reception in the Mackintosh Room.

On 10 September, a day trip to Scottish castles took us from the impressive ruins of Linlighgow Palace to the complex structure of the royal Stirling Castle (where the spectacular re-enactment of its renaissance interiors, and its transformation into a popular attraction caused passionate discussions amongst our group), to fourteenth-century Doune Castle, and to Elcho Castle, one of the best preserved sixteenth-century tower houses, thus illustrating the transition from castle to mansion building. For the occasion, Amy Hickman (Edinburgh College of Art) and Aonghus MacKechnie (Principal Inspector of Historic Buildings at Historic Scotland) had written an informative, illustrated brochure about the castles. To conclude the day, we visited the splendid site of St Andrews Castle facing the seaside, with the remains of what has been the principal administrative centre of the Scottish Church, and St Andrews Cathedral, whose ruins and graves continue to evoke what has been the largest cathedral ever built in Scotland.

Sunday 11 September was centred on Edinburgh, and Guidicini guided us from Edinburgh Castle through Old Town, High Street, and Canongate area. The afternoon was dedicated to Edinburgh’s New Town and classicist area, under the guidance of John Lowrey (Senior Lecturer in Architectural History, Head of Architecture at ESALA).

All visits, led by scholarly and heritage authorities, were brilliantly commented, and documented with handouts, brochures, maps, and plans. A thrilling and intense discovery, without too much rain… and no whisky at all! Our warmest thanks to our Scottish colleagues for this wonderful tour!