The EAHN tour group in front of the Semeniška palaca [Seminary Palace], Ljubljana
(Carlo Martinuzzi, 1708-14, with portal by Luka Mislej and Hercules statues by Angelo Putti)
Photograph: Carmen Popescu

Jože Plecnik, Cobbler’s Bridge,
Ljubljana, 1931
Photograph: S. Rancov

Jože Plecnik, Žale Cemetery,
Ljubljana (1938–40)
Photograph: D. Wedam

Travel Report: Ljubljana

The first study tour organized by the EAHN, to Slovenia from 7–9 July 2006, was a tremendous success. During the three-day trip, participants discovered the rich architectural legacy, both urban and rural, of  Ljubljana and its surroundings.  Thanks to Breda Mihelic, a researcher affiliated with Ljubljana’s Urban Institute and professor of architectural history at the University of Primjorska, and to Carmen Popescu, member of the EAHN committee, those attending the trip benefited from visits led by scholarly authorities and were able to meet Slovenian colleagues.
The full program began with a brilliant contextualization of Ljubljana’s urban and architectural history, from the Roman wall through the medieval and Baroque heritage of the capital city, all viewed in subsequent visits. As soon as touring began, we were introduced to the key figure of modern Slovenian architecture, Jože Plecnik. We toured his house, now transformed into a museum, and visited Plecnik’s National Library and several of his urban design projects under the erudite guidance of Gojko Zupan from the Slovenian Ministry of Culture. The next day, we saw Plecnik’s market, the art nouveau district, apartment buildings built between the two wars, as well as designs implemented under Yugoslavia’s communist regime. In addition to Plecnik’s cemetery right outside Ljubljana, we visited the medieval  town of Knmik and the Velesovo Adergas monastery. The third and final day of the visit took us to the Adriatic Coast, where we benefited from the expertise of Stanko Kokole, professor at the Mediterranean Heritage Institute in Piran. On our way to the coast we visited the Gothic church of Hrastovlje and its famous frescoes depicting, among many themes, the Dance of Death. We made the trip between the marvelous port cities of Piran and Koper (Capodistria)—both under Venetian rule for centuries—on a
specially chartered boat.
An enlightening meeting with the dean of the school of architecture in Ljubljana, Professor Peter Gabrijelcic included lively conversation relating not only to general concerns about architectural education, but also to issues affecting design and historic preservation. We were privileged to visit the brand new headquarters of the Mediterranean Heritage Institute in Piran, where we were able to talk to several scholars in residence. And last but not least, we savored local culinary specialties (who will forget the strukli!) and fully enjoyed the days spent together in a most convivial group.

Carmen Popescu and Alice Thomine